Rowing Outside the Lanes:
A Guide to Open Water

by Doug Kidder
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Open water rowing gives access to scenic water that is otherwise inaccessible with flat-water boats. Analogous to mountain biking where one has a chance to get "off the roads" into beautiful countryside, open water rowing lets the rower "row outside the lanes."

Copyright Gay Graham Photography - All Rights Reserved

From racing in demanding open water events like the twenty-two mile Blackburn Challenge and thirty-five mile Catalina Crossing, camping and rowing in Jackson Hole or Missouri, or simply enjoying a row in the Bay of Maine, all are accessible to anyone who has the equipment, experience, and desire.
I came to this sport late in life. I learned to row in college and continued rowing in flat-water races as a master. It was not an either/or choice; I used my road bike, my mountain bike, my flat-water single and my open water single. I loved blasting off the starting line for one thousand meters in a quad and I also loved feeling the bow of my boat lifting out of the water under the Golden Gate Bridge.

As in flat-water racing, open water racing has its list of champions; men and women who have a real mastery with the stroke and equipment. Scullers who can maintain a 2:10 per 500-meters pace in a double through three to five-foot waves while staying on course. People who can pack a boat and take off into the wilds of Alaska for a month of camping. These champions usually are not big rangy men. Two of the best open water rowers I know are one hundred ten-pound masters women.

The article that follows is a compilation of rows from around the country. Open water rowers that I know write about their favorite rows. These rows will inspire you to try them yourself. Contact information is included to help you find your way "outside the lanes."

Puget Sound
Gull Harbor - Hope Island
by Steve Wells

Joel Rogers, in his excellent book Watertrail, sets the stage:

"Budd Inlet is one of six inlets that carve the shores of southernmost Puget Sound. They are as narrow as the low, forested peninsulas separating them, north south trending, gouged and elongated by the Pleistocene glaciers. Here is the quiet part of the Sound, where the wind has to work its way between overhanging alders to touch the water..."

The Gull Harbor - Hope Island row offers either a half-day or overnight trip option. The overnight option begins in Olympia at the southern tip of Puget Sound, passes the undeveloped shoreline of Priest Point Park, includes the pristine estuary at Gull Harbor, crosses the ship channel in Dana Passage and turns at the campground of Hope Island State Park for the return to Olympia. The half-day option includes an exploration of Gull Harbor, whose entire shoreline is protected by conservation easements, a visit to Boston Harbor for refreshments and then a return to Olympia along either shoreline of Budd Inlet.

Boats are launched from the docks belonging to Olympia Area Rowing located at the Port of Olympia's Swantown Marina. This is a public access dock, and no fees are charged. Vehicles may be parked in the Visitor's lot, and the Port provides 24-hour security.

Hope Island State Park is accessible only by boat. It is one of the registered campgrounds on the Cascadia Marine Trail. Details about the Marine Trail as well as the park and its campground are posted at www.wwta.org/trails/southsound.html . Hope Island is located in the middle of often-strong currents flowing into Squaxin Passage from four inlets, so trip preparation and timing should include consideration of tide charts.

Gull Harbor is three miles north of the put-in at Swantown. The entrance to the harbor is protected by a gravel spit, which at low-tide is notoriously shallow. Once over the bar, the harbor deepens. This is a quiet place offering refuge to rafts of ducks, kingfishers, herons, and harbor seals. The state has provided generous grants to acquire conservation easements here to protect habitat for endangered salmon.

The shoreline remains in private ownership, so boaters cannot pull out on the beach, but the calm and peacefulness of this haven are remarkable. Past the public beach at Burfoot County Park is the marina and boat launch at Boston Harbor, about 6 miles north of Olympia. There's a grocery store at the marina where one may buy the standard refreshments available anywhere but, in addition, the store sells fresh salmon and shellfish for your dinner on Hope Island. They also rent kayaks and Alden shells. If you opt for the half-day row, this is where you turn and head back to Swantown.

Directions: Take exit 105B from I-5 at Olympia. Proceed north on Plum Street, following signs to Port of Olympia. After six lights, turn left at Tom's Outboard onto Marine Drive. Follow signs to Swantown Marina. Park in the visitor's parking lot. Boats may be launched from the dock of Olympia Area Rowing club located on the breakwater north of the boat launch ramps.

Contacts: Steve Wells at Evergreen Rowing LLC in Olympia. Telephone is 360-357-6588 and email is steve@evergreenrowing.com .

Washington State Parks information is available at www.parks.wa.gov .
A really helpful website is at www.soundrowers.org .

Maine
by Debbie Arenberg

Maine Island Trail: A 325-mile-long waterway for small boats extending from Casco Bay to Machias. Designed specifically for self-propelled watercraft and small sailboats and motorboats, the Trail winds its way along the coast over protected salt rivers and quiet bays, around magnificent and exposed capes, and among islands large and small. It takes advantage of the existence of small, state-owned islands along most of the route, using them as overnight stopovers where one can camp in a wilderness setting. Other islands, including many privately owned ones, are also in the Trail system.

The best way to learn more about this amazing trail is to contact the Maine Island Trail Association (MITA.) The mission of MITA is "to establish a model of thoughtful use and volunteer stewardship for the Maine islands that will assure their conservation in a natural state while providing an exceptional recreational asset that is maintained and cared for by the people who use it." If you join MITA, you get access to the privately-owned islands as well as a 300-page Stewardship Handbook which includes chapters on cruising guidelines, access information, island descriptions, in-depth technical articles and educational essays on the local floral and fauna.

Suggested reading in addition to the guidebook is "Hot Showers", written by Lee Bumstead. This book is a guide to Maine coast lodgings for rowers, kayakers and sailors. Lee also begins her recommended travels in the Casco Bay region and takes rowers Downeast to Lubec. Her guide gives specifics from available parking to launching hints (tide, etc), recommended inns and B&B's, chart excerpts, wheel chair access, and much more.

Contacts: To join M.I.T.A .- www.mita.org or contact the Maine Island Trail Association offices at: POB Box C, Rockland, Maine 04841, www.islands@ime.net , 207-596-7796 or the Portland, Maine office at 207-761-8225, mita@ime.net . Individual memberships start at $65 per person.

Order Hot Showers from Audenreed Press at 888-315-0582 9AM-5PM EST, or online at www.biddle-audenreed.com at $18.95 plus $2 S&H.

Piscataqua River to Pepperell Cove, Kittery Point: Most tourists funnel into the state of Maine near the coast via the tall I-95 bridge that passes over the Piscataqua River. (Accent on the 2nd of four syllables!) This unsuspecting body of water forms the boundary that separates Maine from New Hampshire and is the mouth of a water network that flows from the southern seacoast to the sea via the Great Bay, and the Oyster, Salmon Falls, Squamscott, Cocheco, and the Bellemy Rivers. All rivers are accessible directly or very nearly from many launch sites located in both Maine and NH. The Piscataqua River is tidal and is prone to swift currents, especially through the Portsmouth, NH area, so do your homework and check local navigational and tidal charts before attempting this row.

The Piscataqua River empties out into Portsmouth Harbor (NH side) and Pepperell Cove (the Maine side). Rowers can launch from either the Great Common Park in Newcastle, NH or Fort Foster (WWII) Park in Kittery Point, ME to experience a variety of protected saltwater rowing cruises.

My favorite row is to launch at Fort Foster, cross the harbor mouth, enter Little Harbor, pass the historic Wentworth By The Sea Hotel, circle around the island of New Castle, NH and back to Fort Foster, for a round trip of approximately 7 miles. You can extend your trip by turning into one of the many creeks or coves along the course. The view of the harbor from both locations is spectacular and includes Ft. McClary (Revolutionary War), the Whaleback Light, passing ferries to the Isles of Shoals, working lobster boats, rocky coastline, excellent swimming beaches, harbor seals, puffins, and a myriad of water fowl.

Contacts: Alden Rowing Shells, Eliot, ME 800-477-1507 (rent shells) or Portsmouth Visitor Information at 603-436-1118 (NH) or Kittery Chamber 207-439-7545 (ME).

Jay Graham Photography - All rights reserved.

San Francisco Bay
by Shirwin Smith and Ellen Braithwaite

Home is San Francisco Bay - specifically the waters off Sausalito and out into the main San Francisco Bay. Twenty years ago those waters both thrilled and terrified me - the rough water could be so rough, and it would seem sometimes to come up for no reason at all. Twenty years and a lot of learning later, the same waters still have the power to thrill, but terror has mellowed into paying attention and in some cases, choosing another direction to row, or even, staying on shore with breakfast.

Why is San Francisco Bay my favorite spot? Some part of this has to be attributed to watching the sport grow on the scrappy northern Sausalito shoreline, but there are many more reasons:

1. Variety of conditions, even on a single row.
You can start on flat water, fly through a wicked tide rip with foot and a half to two foot standing waves, hit chop driven by an 18-20 knot breeze, go back into shiny flat water and finish with a downwind run to the boathouse under wind-driven fog. This is all within a 4 to 8 mile row. Or, the same day, you could choose a different direction and row over no more than rippled water the whole time you're out.

2. Variety of vistas .
We've got islands - natural islands, islands with prisons, islands covered with birds, islands with lighthouses. We've got mountains - no Rockies, but mountains nonetheless. We've got hills that change from glowing green to gold. We've got a big city in one direction and a national park with all its open space in another. You can row just off an urban shoreline, or off a shore of a state park with rocky headlands and wildflowers on the bluffs above. There's more, but you get the idea.

3. Lots of folks who love the sport, but plenty of room for all.
To me, open water is precious because you don't have to "stay in your lane". For me, living in an urban area, open space and the ability to enjoy it in solitude are precious gifts. But when you want to be with others who love it all like you do, you have that, too.

Where: Richardson Bay (arm of San Francisco Bay off Sausalito)
How: Launch from the beach at Schoonmaker Point Marina, or from Open Water Rowing Center (within the marina), but call first. 415-332-1091
What: You need a true open water shell - hard-decked, with small volume cockpit and self-bailer. And bring a lifevest to have in the shell - the USCG approved small blow up vests are fine, but make sure they're manual or the auto-inflate feature may blow parts off your shell if you have it tucked behind the footstretcher!

Suggested rows all starting at Open Water Rowing:

Short: NM (approx) along the Sausalito shoreline to Yellow Bluff and return
Medium: 8.5 NM around Angel Island or around Alcatraz. Be ready for the possibility of wild water. Experienced open water scullers only
Longer: 12.4 NM Through Raccoon Strait, out to and around Red Rock and return. Experienced open water scullers only
More: 16.2 NM Through Raccoon Strait, out to and around East Brother Light and return. Experienced open water scullers only.

Contacts: Open Water Rowing, Sausalito, CA 415-332-1091, www.owrc.com , owrc@owrc.com .

Florida
by Urs and Renee Wunderli

Florida has an abundance of public access to lakes, canals, bays, ocean and the Gulf of Mexico. Starting in the northern part of the state is the famous Suwannee River. The Suwannee begins in the Okefenokee Swamp in Southern Georgia, and winds it's way through 206 miles of age old cypress trees and beautiful pines that line the river banks and high bluffs, before emptying into the Gulf of Mexico near Cedar Key, FL. The river teems with wildlife such as exotic birds, otters, turtles and yes, the occasional Florida Gator. There are campsites along the way, as well as accommodations for the non-camper. Not all of the river is navigable by rowing, only a stones throw wide as the locals say, but with the maps a row tour can be planned with ease.

Maps of the river, launch areas and campsites are available from the Suwannee River Water Management District ( www.srwmd.state.fl.us or 386-362-1001).

Further south are the islands of Captiva and Sanibel. The canals and mangroves are endless. In the canals the waters are generally calm, therefore, a narrow rowing shell can manage without fighting wind and waves. Accommodations on the islands are usually small resorts and cottages or B & B's, many with water access. Day trips can be planned and for the more adventurous a row out into the Gulf of Mexico.

The Captiva/Sanibel Chamber of Commerce ( www.sanibel-captiva.org or 239-472-1080) is the best source for information on accommodations and maps of the islands.

If one has the time and is inclined to a longer row, a row across the state can be accomplished through Lake Okeechobee and the Okeechobee Waterway. To begin a row across the state, boats can be launched from Shepards Park in Stuart, FL. The row from Stuart to Fort Myers, FL is 155 miles, which takes approximately one week. There are marinas, restaurants and campsites along the way, as well as, locks to negotiate and the proverbial Florida Gator. Neither locks nor gators have caused distress to those who have "rowed the state". The park rangers, water patrol and lockmasters have all proven to be agreeable to seeing rowers on their waterway.

The furthest point south for rowing or anything else in the US is Key West. Boyd's Camp Ground has been the site of the annual Keys Row, although some prefer the comfort of a real bed after a day of rowing. Always on Presidents Day week-end and always rowing fun with everything from Assay life guard boats to rec/racing shells. This past year there were even the "odd" kayakers. It is primarily a rower's event. The weather has cooperated for the most part. This past year one stop on the row was at a defunct submarine dry dock. They are now filled with water, excellent for snorkeling and diving.

These are only a mere sampling of rowing opportunities in Florida. There are rowing waters for every boat and every rower, regardless of boat type or rowing skills. Most rowing shells can be outfitted for touring with basic kayak hatches and tie downs. We have carried as much as 150 lbs of water plus rower and personal gear on a recreational rowing shell.

Contacts: More information on rowing in Florida is available by calling Urs Wunderli at 888-767-8827 or 941-387-7773.

Jackson Hole
by Mark Miller

This country is of a nature best described as awesome and breathtaking. The row is actually three rows, minimum, that you should experience if you are to make such a trip with an open water boat. They are Jenny Lake, Jackson Lake and the first section of the Snake River (roughly in order of challenge).

The first, Jenny Lake, is about 3,000 meters north to south. Jenny Lake is right at the foot of the Grand Tetons, so the water is at about 6,400' and the slope up and out at the southwest shore goes right up to 13,770'.

Rowing at this altitude requires some care and preparation. When we were there in late June, the air was 46 degrees but it can be 80. All the water up there is really cold so take special care and with a range like the Tetons at your side things can change very fast so be over prepared. In addition, Jenny Lake is supposed to be wakeless, but the Park Service vendor that operates the shuttle boats that take hikers to the Hidden Falls trail can kick up a swell (not to mention the wind swell if things kick up.) Stop at the Jenny Lake visitor desk first to ask where to launch, because it is not out of that parking area, but further south on the other side of the lake outlet.

Next, for some more distance is Jackson Lake, which is 20 miles long and is dominated again by the range, Mt. Moran in particular. Launch from the Colter Bay Marina (free for shells and canoes), and start with the protected bays and islands in that area and venture out from there.

The weather patterns on Jackson Lake are similar to those on Jenny Lake. After we had just gotten off the water we witnessed a squall of snow and wind come in over the course of 3 minutes. All the fishing motor craft fled the lake for harbor. So, if you range out keep close to shore and keep your crossings short.

Finally, although it's a little unorthodox, the best row is the first section of the Snake River putting in below the dam of Lake Jackson and taking out at the Pacific Creek takeout. It is about a 5 mile row with the option of taking the still water oxbow for extra scenery. I did this row three times: once alone late in the afternoon in my 2x touring wherry to scout it out, once with my 7yr old son pulling out at sunset, and then again at about 10am the next day with my wife.
The current is significant, the water is shallow (perhaps 4 to 6 feet for most of it) and it will only take you 50 minutes if rowed most of the way. However, it is so beautiful you're unlikely to row the entire distance.

The same mountains dominate the scenery and there are tons of Osprey crashing in just off your bow; port then starboard! The ospreys are so close that you can actually tell if it is a Cut Throat or a Rainbow as they fly past with the fish in talons.

In addition to the Ospreys, there are White Pelicans, Great Blue Herons, Beavers (smacking their tails in display), River Otters, Moose (watch out for those they swim pretty fast), Canada Geese, assorted ducks and Elk. In the afternoon we were the only boat with just two flyfishermen on the bank. The next day we shared the river with three sea kayaks, two drift boats and some white water rafts putting in at the takeout. A word of caution is that you should have river skills and experience since, depending on the flow out of the dam, there are two modest riffles, one about a mile after put in and one right at takeout. You can scout the takeout on foot (since you need to see where you will be leaving your car and hitching back to the launch area, if you are alone). This one was a little shallow and if you don't hit the "tongue" just right you may drag your fin so have the plastic short one in. Again your boating skills must be very very good and prior river experience important.

Contacts: You will need a National Park Boat Permit, $10. Go on line to www.nps.gov/grte to read more and view the great images plus go to the Boating page for full details. June-Sept are the dates and stay at the cabins at Colter Bay Village, great food in the cafe there with reasonable prices, check for the best deals June or September at www.gtlc.com , Mark Miller at Rowest/RARC 505-988-7191 rowest@myexcel.com .

Setting up for the row.

Kataram ultimate stability.

Fully loaded Turbo II

Breath-taking scenery on the Missouri.

Montana
by Urs and Renee Wunderli

Rowing the Upper and Wild Missouri River - Following the Path of Lewis & Clark: We were introduced to the idea of rowing the Missouri, by Don and Sylvia Hollaran from Madison, WI. A few years ago Don and Sylvia spent 2 weeks on the upper Missouri floating the river and exploring the many sites along the 155 miles stretch. We realized that it must be very possible and an extraordinary experience to row the river, as Lewis and Clark did with their Corps of Discovery in 1804. We discussed it, planned and did it, in August of 2001.

Preparation is crucial for a journey of this sort. Renee launched herself in to the research of local contacts in Montana. We read Stephen Ambrose's book "Undaunted Courage", buried ourselves in research and created long lists of necessary equipment and gear.

We counted on 5 days of rowing (that was all the time we could allow ourselves for this trip) for 155 miles, 31 miles per day. Deducting 7 miles per day for the river's flow of about 1-1.5 miles/hour, calculating about 24 miles per day was positively feasible.

Next, was preparing psychologically for a camping trip on this remote part of the Missouri. While both being good distance rowers, the camping part we had to start from scratch. Buying things from tent to porto potty (collapsible) and 17 gallons of bottled water for drinking, cooking and showers. One rule of the Upper and Wild Missouri River is "pack in and pack out". We needed to be fully self supportive for 5 days.

We rowed a pair of single sculls for this trip: a twin-hulled Virus Kataram and a modified Virus Turbo II Classic (Polyethylene) sliding seat. From a Virus rower we learned how to convert two Wall-Mart 5$ aluminum lawn chairs into a robust platform across the hulls of the Kataram to tie down gear and dry bags. On the Turbo II Classic we installed a large oval hatch (L16"W8") that provided for water storage in the hull.

The next important issue was food. Planning what to take and how. We found that we needed a mixture of dried and fresh foods, all pre-packed to meal size portions. We ate very well. The morning cowboy coffee tasted better than **bucks. With pre-installed cleats on both boats we tied down our dry bags containing everything for the 5 days. Preparing and packing was half the fun. Research well done.

Securing autos and trailer to have in place at the end of the row, in James Kipp State Park, was an undertaking by itself. With the help of friends we created our own shuttle service driving over 450 miles of dirt roads and back to Fort Benton before launching the boats. Local canoe outfitters do offer a shuttle service for a fee.

Rowing a river requires navigational skills "in reverse". It was practical to have the Turbo II in the lead, hitting the occasional "under water" rock was not a problem for the poly boat. The upper Missouri, on certain stretches, in August, is only 2-3 feet deep, with rocks just barely covered by water.

The scenery of the Upper Missouri is spectacular. Many sites along the river are full of Wild West great history. There is hardly a mile without some significance, some connection to a great story of the past. In this respect, one can appreciate "rowing" a scenic area. The vista never ends, until the river takes another turn.

Other than the few canoeists on the river we encountered only two locals in the entire stretch of 155 miles.
The Park Authorities in Montana provide spartan, yet very clean campsites. Some with latrines, fire rings and lean-tos incase of "weather". We pitched our tent in places where 200 years ago the delegation of the Corps of Discovery camped and hunted. Spectacular rock formations, such as, Steamboat Rock, Citadel and the legendary White Cliffs were seen all along the way. We visited the former settlements of many homesteaders from the late 1800's and walked the grounds of famous outlaw hideouts. The Upper Missouri is row touring at it's best!

Useful information for packing:

• Enough water to prevent dehydration (extremely important)
• Insect repellent (recommended by a James Kipp ranger, equal parts water and vanilla extract)
• Comfortable water shoes
• Sunscreen and hat
• Rowing gloves
• Rain gear
• Sufficient garbage bags

Contacts: Fort Benton Chamber of Commerce and Visitors Center 406-622-3864. www.fortbenton.com (go to members for all local contacts) RUM International, Inc. 941-387-7773 info@rowvirusboats.com